Rearing Clownfish

Overview
The first few hours and days of life, larvae feed off their yolk sacs. Before the sac is used up – about 72 hours after hatching – the larvae must master hunting skills in order to survive. Large die-offs between 2 and 4 days are most likely the result of starvation. Live well-fed rotifers are the time-tested prime first food for larval clownfish that not only nourish the larvae but allow them to master their hunting skills. It’s critical that the rotifers be nourished prior to feeding them to the larvae, and this is ensured by feeding the rotifers phytoplankton. For the first 3 days, we add phytoplankton to the larvae tank and we add 4-5 extra drops of phytoplankton to the rotifer culture we’re using for larvae food 30 minutes prior to feeding the larvae. For days 6-14 we add 4-5 extra drops of phytoplankton to the rotifer culture 30 minutes prior to feeding the larvae.

Because clownfish larvae can’t see well and need to master their hunting skills, it’s important to keep the rotifer density very high. We’ve calculated the density levels (based on an average of 50-75 rotifers/ml) of appropriate rotifers for larvae feeding and have included those measurements in the guides below. If you add too little rotifers then the larvae will starve; if you add too many rotifers then the larvae will suffocate. (We’ve experienced both scenarios and our guide works pretty well now.)

While maintaining proper feeding is the most important component of successful clownfish rearing, maintaining proper tank conditions are a close second. The ideal conditions for a larvae tank uses a small volume of water, no filtration, and frequent feedings – all things we don’t normally do with our reef aquariums. And although larvae thrive in these conditions, any deterioration in water quality can kill them, so dedicated tank maintenance is essential.

Any debris on the bottom of the larvae tank must be removed twice a day for the first few days – we siphon twice daily for the first 2 weeks which helps us maintain low ammonia levels. Any debris left in the tank will result in toxic ammonia levels. Despite constant cleaning, ammonia and nitrite will develop and PH level will drop water changes will help. Since only live food is being introduced to the tank, the water will stay pretty clean and changing it isn’t necessary for the first few days. During days 3-7, a 20% daily change(we use water from the parent tank) keeps the water tolerable. During days 8-12 (metamorphosis) we keep the water changes minimal – about 10-15% every other day. After metamorphosis (usually by day 14) we add a sponge filter to the tank and decrease our water changes.

Despite the work involved in rearing clownfish, seeing them go through metamorphosis and become baby fish is truly spectacular. Larvae are practically transparent at first and after 3-4 days they start to develop body pigments and become a light brown color with big metallic eyes and silver potbellies. As metamorphosis gets closer, black pigment develops turning them from light brown to dark brown or black. At the time of metamorphosis, their bodies elongate and tails and fins develop. Their eyes are now fully developed and light doesn’t bother them. And almost overnight, they become baby fish with markings and color and quirky swimming patterns!

Note: Many larvae will lay still at the bottom of the tank during metamorphosis, which is why we don’t siphon those that are not obviously dead – we leave them unless they’re still at the bottom the next evening.

Rearing Guide
To have larvae successfully morph into beautiful baby clownfish you must have the right food and tank conditions, and a lot of dedication. It’s easier to follow a day-by-day guide to raising them so that’s what I’m going to do.

What you will need to raise clownfish:

• Live rotifer culture (read the thread “How to Grow Rotifers” )
• Phytoplankton
• Golden Pearls
• Cyclop-eeze
• Ammonia kit
• Small-diameter rigid airline tube for cleaning (approximately 1/8”)

During the whole process, it’s essential to check the ammonia level, specific gravity, nitrite, and temperature. We try to keep our parameters according the following:

• Ammonia: less than 3ppm
• Specific gravity: 1.023 – 1.026
• Nitrite: less than 20ppm
• Temperature: 79 – 82 degrees F

If ammonia levels are too high water changes will help to lower it. If specific gravity is too low then slowly add salt to the water you are adding to the tank. If specific gravity is too high then add RO water to the water you are adding to the tank. If nitrite is too high then water changes will help to lower it. If temperature is too high or low then adjust your heater.

Day 0-1
Lighting:
We keep a dimmed light (3 layers of paper towels between the light and the tank) on for the first 24 hours.
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning and evening before feeding. (If the larvae are squished, broken, or very plump with dull eyes then they’re dead. FYI: Many times live larvae will lay on the bottom of the tank while they’re still eating the remainder of their yolk).

Note: If you happen to siphon live larvae – and you’ll see them darting if they’re alive – then you can use a very tiny beaker to scoop them out and put back in the larvae tank. You’ll need to be patient with this and wait until they dart to the top and then gently scoop them out and gently place them back in tank.
Feeding:
Day 0 there is already phytoplankton and rotifers. The next morning (around 8am) we strain 200-300 ml of rotifer culture and add to the tank. That afternoon (around 1pm) we add rotifers (same as the morning). That night (around 7pm) we add 3 drops of phytoplankton and add rotifers (same as the morning).

Days 2-3
Lighting:
We keep dimmed lighting (3 layers of paper towels); on for 16 hours
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning and evening before feeding. On day 3, do a 10% water change.
Feeding:
In the mornings (around 7am) we strain 200-300 ml of rotifer culture and add to the tank. That afternoon (around 1pm) we add rotifers (same as the morning). At night (around 7pm) we add 3 drops of phytoplankton and add rotifers (same as the morning).

Days 4-8
Lighting:
We keep dimmed lighting (2 layer of paper towels); on for 12 hours
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning and evening before feeding.
Begin small water changes: In the morning before feeding and after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 1 gallon and add back 1 ½ gallons from parent tank.
Feeding:
In the mornings (around 7am) we strain 200-300 ml of rotifer culture and add to the tank. At night (around 7pm) we add rotifers (same as the morning) AND we begin adding a pinch of Golden Pearls.

(While most breeders state that it’s necessary to start larvae on live baby brine shrimp on day 5, we’ve found that culturing them is difficult and maintaining the perfect size and amount for larvae is sometimes too timely and costly – if the shrimp are too big or contain shells then the larvae will die from eating them. We’ve raised many larvae batches successfully by eliminating this process and substituting with the Golden Pearls. Usually by day 4 or 5 the larvae have mastered “catching” their food and are able to eat the Golden Pearls with no trouble.)

Days 9-14 (Metamorphosis)
Lighting:
We keep dimmed lighting (1 layer of paper towels); on for 12 hours
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning and evening before feeding.
Water changes: Days 9-12 are metamorphosis so we only do minimal water change (about 10%) in the evening. On Day 13 you can increase water changes and water: In the morning and evening before feeding but after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 1 ½ gallons and add back 2 gallons.


After they have all gone through metamorphosis (usually by day 14) then add a sponge filter.

Feeding:
Decrease rotifers and increase Golden Pearls: In the mornings (around 7am) we strain 100 ml of rotifer culture and add to the tank, along with a pinch of Golden Pearls. At night (around 7pm) we add rotifers (same as the morning) add 2 pinches of Golden Pearls.

Here’s a couple of our saddlebacks that have just gone through metamorphosis


Days 15-20
Lighting:
We keep full lighting on for 12 hours.
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning OR evening before feeding.
Increase water changes and water: In the morning and evening before feeding but after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 1 ½ gallons and add back 2 ½ gallons. (By now your tank should be 50%-60% full with water).
Feeding:
Stop adding rotifers, add Golden Pearls and Cyclops-eeze: In the mornings we add 2-3 pinches of Golden Pearls. At night we add 2 pinches of Golden Pearls and 1 pinch of Cyclops-eeze.


Here's some of our ocellaris' that have all gone through metamorphosis (day 16)


Days 21-28
Lighting:
We keep full lighting on for 12 hours.
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning OR evening before feeding.
Increase water changes and water: In the morning and evening before feeding but after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 2 gallons and add back 3 gallons.
Feeding:
Stop adding Golden Pearls. In the mornings and evenings we add 2-3 pinches of Cyclops-eeze.

Days 29-40
Lighting:
We keep full lighting on for 12 hours.
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning OR evening before feeding.
Increase water changes and water: In the morning and evening before feeding but after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 2 ½ gallons and add back 4 gallons.
Feeding:
Start adding flake: In the mornings we add 2-3 pinches of Cyclops-eeze, and in the evenings we add 2 pinches of Cyclops-eeze and 1 finely crumbled pinch of high-protein flake.

Days 41+
Lighting:
We keep full lighting on for 12 hours.
Tank Conditions:
Siphon out obvious dead larvae in the morning OR evening before feeding.
Increase water changes and water: Slowly add water each day until you have the tank about 2/3 full. Then continue the water changes either in the evenings or in the mornings: before feeding but after cleaning debris, we siphon out about 2-4 gallons and add back 2-4 gallons.
Feeding:
Flake: In the mornings and evenings we add 2-3 pinches of finely crumbled pinch of high-protein flake. After the babies are 60 days old we slowly start to add frozen mysis shrimp to the meal plan.

Well put Barbra, thanks for sharing.

So at 4 months they should definitely be on flake. I knew they had to be.

They must not like the smell of the flakes I'm giving them. Oddly enough, my other clown didn't care for them either. I think I'm going to switch to other more clown-specific flakes.

Yes...they should definitely be on flake...we have never had a problem with feeding flake...we did have one brand of food that they ate but not as heartily as they normally do - but that only lasted a couple of days...went out and bought the right food real fast! We use Tetra Marine - the one with added nutrients - and it works fine!

We haven't discussed culling yet.

As I'm spending more time looking at my fish, I've noticed a pretty severe abnormality with one of them. Mako has a pretty massive underbite. It doesn't look normal or healthy. I'm not sure if this is a genetic trait, or a deformity caused during the rearing process.

I'm not about to send him back, and we'll see how things play out. He's still young and might grow out of it. But I'm guessing this is a fish that probably should have been culled.

Don't fret over it too much Jason, I'm sure it'll be fine ...the one concern I have with the designer fish is that the reason they became "designer" is that they're misbarred...and misbarred fish are a result of abnormalities of some kind which means they haven't developed exactly as they should...so while the big craze currently is for these "designer" fish I sometimes wonder why are we moving towards breeding developments of our dogs??? Is that a good thing??? Should we really play with nature??? OK...philosophical moment is over

Quick barb, get to work raising these!

Drs. Foster and Smith Diver's Den - Amphiprion ocellaris

Originally Posted by RCA

Quick barb, get to work raising these!

Drs. Foster and Smith Diver's Den - Amphiprion ocellaris

WOW, $400 for a pair of clowns? I guess I have been out of touch. I never realized people were paying that much.

That is crazy.

$400 is nothing for some designer clowns. Adult pairs of the good "Onyx" line, addison and c-quest heritage, still go for about $499. "Wyoming Whites" sell for even more. I've seen prices all over the place for the extreme misbars that completely cover the fish in both percula and ocellaris. $799 for a pair of fish isn't unheard of.

Still nutso, I would never pay that much even as a vendor. No way.

Originally Posted by skinz78

That is crazy.

Originally Posted by Reefdaddy

Still nutso, I would never pay that much even as a vendor. No way.

See Barb, I knew those clownfish were going to sell. They're already long gone!

Now you're stuck with the next grade up! PLATINUM PERCS for only $599!!!

Drs. Foster and Smith Diver's Den - Amphiprion percula

Oh and fun fact. Did you know that Platinum Percs, True Picassos, Wyoming Whites, Grade A Picassos and Grade B Picassos all come from the same parents? I think every 1/1000 of my babies will be a Platinum Percula if I'm lucky!

Originally Posted by RCA

See Barb, I knew those clownfish were going to sell. They're already long gone!

Now you're stuck with the next grade up! PLATINUM PERCS for only $599!!!

Drs. Foster and Smith Diver's Den - Amphiprion percula

Holly Crap! I guess people are buying them if Ora is selling. I must be cheap.

Originally Posted by RCA

Oh and fun fact. Did you know that Platinum Percs, True Picassos, Wyoming Whites, Grade A Picassos and Grade B Picassos all come from the same parents? I think every 1/1000 of my babies will be a Platinum Percula if I'm lucky!

I hope you get lucky Jason. Be prepared to sell your high dollar clowns somewhere besides Delaware because I doubt they will move very fast around here, at least not at that price.

Originally Posted by ento_reefer

Holly Crap! I guess people are buying them if Ora is selling. I must be cheap.



I hope you get lucky Jason. Be prepared to sell your high dollar clowns somewhere besides Delaware because I doubt they will move very fast around here, at least not at that price.

That's why Al Gore invented the internets.

But seriously, I know I won't be selling my fish for that much.

Originally Posted by RCA

That's why Al Gore invented the internets.

But seriously, I know I won't be selling my fish for that much.

Thats why I am not a business person. I have absolutely no sense when it comes to stuff like that. I just know that every time I have tried to sell anything I had to get to rock bottom stupid low prices before anyone would even think of buying. It is so frustrating that I would rather give my used equipment away to a needy person.

This is kinda off topic now. Sorry Barb

maybe i missed it but what size tank are you using and how many gal do you start with

We use 10g tanks but a 5g or even a 20g will work. When they first hatch they cant swim or see too well so you only want a few gallons in the tank. This also helps them find the rotifers and helps you keep a good rotifer count in the water for them. You want rotifers to always be close to the fry so if you fill the tank up your going to have to add 10x or more rotifers to the tank then if you only have a few gallons. Once they go through metamorphosis and are onto bigger foods you can fill the tank up all the way.

What a great thread Barb! I can't wait to be able to do this someday, and i'm sure the kids will enjoy it also. Maybe the clowns will lay some eggs now that the coral banded's gone........dunno if it matters, but wishful thinking!